Car diagnostic tools information by obd2tool

Welcome to my blog,here some auto diagnostic tools will be displayed. If you want to know more information,you can visit our official website: www.obd2tool.com.

Car diagnostic tools information by obd2tool

Welcome to my blog,here some auto diagnostic tools will be displayed. If you want to know more information,you can visit our official website: www.obd2tool.com.

What is tech2?

What is tech2?

The Tech 2 is a powerful, versatile hand-held diagnostic computer, designed to help diagnose and repair today’s automotive electronic systems. The Tech 2 supports the changes in the on-board electronic systems for model years 1996 and beyond. With the addition of the CAN Diagnostic Interface (CANdi) module, Tech 2 will support GM on-board electronic systems for years to come.

What-is-tech2

The CANdi is an in-cable module that works with existing Tech 2 components including the VCI, cables and adapters to add CAN diagnostic capability to the Tech 2 tester. The CANdi module is fully backward compatible with current Tech 2 functionality and operates transparently when diagnosing non-CAN-equipped vehicles.

The Tech 2 provides extensive diagnostic capability through the 32MB PCMCIA card. The PCMCIA card stores diagnostic information intended to diagnose powertrain, body or chassis control modules and related vehicle malfunctions. It also contains the Service Programming System (SPS) application which allows the Tech 2 to program control modules with vehicle calibration data.

The PCMCIA card is updated by linking the Tech 2 to a PC that has access to the ACDelco TDS website. This method of communication provides flexibility for updating the card with vehicle calibration data, mid-year and new-model-year vehicle diagnostics and Tech 2 software enhancements. Software updates are distributed to GM dealers automatically via TIS2WEB at the GM Global Connect web site or go directly to the TIS2WEB site to download updates at any time.

The Tech 2 is capable of capturing a snapshot of vital performance data at idle or during a test drive. You can replay the snapshot or plot and graph the data directly on the Tech 2, or the snapshot file may be uploaded to an approved GM Techline terminal. The file may also be stored on the CD-ROM terminal for future reference. The snapshot capability allows you to see where an intermittent fault occurred, even if it did not set a trouble code.
Model Year Coverage

92 up OBD systems CAN equipped vehicle coverage with CANdi module
PC Requirements:

Only required if reprogramming or Tech 2 diagnostic software update is performed. Tech 2 is a stand-alone diagnostic tool. Currently GM is recommending a minimum Intel i5 processor
Recommended package:

Intel Core i5 at 2.6GHz 64 bit
2) USB 2.0 (or better) ports
500GB Hard drive
4GB ram
Windows 7 Professional 64bit
Internet Explorer 9 +
Wireless capability
Note: The Tech 2 uses a legacy DB9 Serial Null modem cable to connect to PC. Current spec PC do not have this connection. It will be necessary to have the null modem cable and a Tripplite Serial to USB adapter properly configured on the machine to perform reprogramming or diagnostic software updates.

Software License

Available as three different subscriptions:

Complete GM Service Support Package Includes: GM SI, Tis2Web – All Access, GDS 2, and Tech2Win
Tech 2 Service and programming package which includes software updates and license for the Tech 2 operating software, Service programming software, Tech 2 View, Tech 2 Snap Shot, and Tech2Win
Tech 2 Diagnostics Includes: Car Diagnostic Tool Tech 2 Diagnostic software updates

The Tech 2 does not time out if the software becomes outdated. The tool will display a message to update as a reminder and may not operate correctly with newer vehicles if it is not updated regularly.

2010 Benz S550 error “Air Suspension malfunction” solution

Topic: How-To solve the error that 2010 Benz S550 got ” Air Suspension malfunction”. MB diagnostics like MB SD Connect C5 /Star C4 will play its role.

What to do:

need to have someone check for fault codes using MB diagnostics like MB sd connect C5 /C4 while doing so also re-calibrate suspension. DIY – check all sensors/connections, revisit struts and control valve for connection problems/leaks, check compressor harness/connection. Worst case scenario possible strut internal leakage in which case it would need to be replaced.

mb-diagnostics-2010-benz-s550-1

mb-diagnostics-2010-benz-s550-2

Suspension strut component description

Check AIRmatic for leaks

Here comes one question:

One question I have is around Y36/6, I don’t see that in my vehicle or at least not in that layout. If I look at the closeup of the Y36/6 in the attached document, it does not match what I see in the picture below, in the attachment/closeup I see 6 white rubber/plastic tubes coming out and the location is color coded but if you look at the picture y36/6 has 4 metal tubes coming out on the side, is it because the closeup is shown after a cover has been removed?

Also, on mine, on top of the compressor there is a silver metallic block that has 4 metal tubes coming out from the top and not from the sides, is the difference due to mine not being 4Matic?

Last but not the least, all the diag and re-calibration you talk about, can those be done through MB STAR Tool?

Here is the answer:

4matic does not matter, Y36/6 is the valve block @ compressor only thing that might appear different is labeling could be missing. STAR should accommodate re-calibration & diagnostics.

mb-diagnostics-2010-benz-s550-3

install air suspension valve unit

install compressor

install bottom engine compartment paneling

Finally, I purchased Benz C5 with SD disk, here is the link.

Compressor and valve unit are behind the bumper just in front of the right wheel. If you remove the right front wheel and the wheel well liner you will see the valve block.

Here’s the pic for quick reference

mb-diagnostics-2010-benz-s550-4

What’s the deal with jacking the car?

I typically follow the WIS procedures. For the suspension work you would normally want to release pressure from the struts in order to avoid damage to them or you. I’ve always done this via Xentry.

What type of lug?

After finally understanding how to locate and test the air leak at the valve, it turns out my wheels have special lugs all of them as opposed to one being the lock nut. It looks like flower, what gives??? I only have the usual MM impact wrench socket. What is it called and where to get it?

Reply: So, 17mm has been stock on many Mercedes for some time. The Convex (flower head) bolts appeared with the Maybach and then the W221 and are also on several other models. It is entirely possible that someone put 17mm hex head bolts on your car or even another size, do you have aftermarket wheels? You might just take a 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, etc. out to the car with you to see which one fits best. At the very least the lug wrench in the tool kit in the trunk should fit.

I fixed my Airmatic issues Friday, so relieved.

I replaced the valve block (which I suspect was actually fine) and as I was putting the lines back in, I noticed a very small crack on one of the strut air lines where it must have been bent around the brass fitting. I cut off the bad inch and reconnected the line to the fitting, and now the suspension works just fine. I drove it for 7 hours yesterday (road trip) and not a single problem manifested itself! I did a soapy water leak test but this must have been too small to see.

Regarding that additional pump/component in the fender: I was able to take off the torx bolts holding it to the bracket there and slide the part over to the right. It actually fit pretty nicely just resting on the bottom of the FR fender/bumper. Anyways, just sliding it out of the way gave me enough room to work on the valve block.

Basic steps:

Removed wheel and wheel fender liner

Removed 2 torx bolts holding that mystery part on then carefully slid it off the bracket and braced it against the bumper/fender. Be very careful not to mess with the pressure lines too much, I’m not sure how much flexing they’re rated for but it certainly isn’t much.

Use a 10 mm wrench to crack open all the fittings at the valve block and drain the air system (compressor fitting uses a 12 mm)

Unscrew the single screw holding the valve body on and then slide the whole thing out, vehicle right. A rubber fitting holds it on the other end, it just slides off

If you have the same problem, you might as well get the valve body JIC… and follow the video instructions.