Topic: How-To solve the error that 2010 Benz S550 got ” Air Suspension malfunction”. MB diagnostics like MB SD Connect C5 /Star C4 will play its role.
What to do:
need to have someone check for fault codes using MB diagnostics like
MB sd connect C5 /C4 while doing so also re-calibrate suspension. DIY –
check all sensors/connections, revisit struts and control valve for
connection problems/leaks, check compressor harness/connection. Worst
case scenario possible strut internal leakage in which case it would
need to be replaced.
Suspension strut component description
Check AIRmatic for leaks
Here comes one question:
One question I have is around Y36/6, I don’t see that in my vehicle
or at least not in that layout. If I look at the closeup of the Y36/6 in
the attached document, it does not match what I see in the picture
below, in the attachment/closeup I see 6 white rubber/plastic tubes
coming out and the location is color coded but if you look at the
picture y36/6 has 4 metal tubes coming out on the side, is it because
the closeup is shown after a cover has been removed?
Also, on mine, on top of the compressor there is a silver metallic
block that has 4 metal tubes coming out from the top and not from the
sides, is the difference due to mine not being 4Matic?
Last but not the least, all the diag and re-calibration you talk about, can those be done through MB STAR Tool?
Here is the answer:
4matic does not matter, Y36/6 is the valve block @ compressor only
thing that might appear different is labeling could be missing. STAR
should accommodate re-calibration & diagnostics.
install air suspension valve unit
install compressor
install bottom engine compartment paneling
Finally, I purchased Benz C5 with SD disk, here is the link.
Compressor and valve unit are behind the bumper just in front of the
right wheel. If you remove the right front wheel and the wheel well
liner you will see the valve block.
Here’s the pic for quick reference
What’s the deal with jacking the car?
I typically follow the WIS procedures. For the suspension work you
would normally want to release pressure from the struts in order to
avoid damage to them or you. I’ve always done this via Xentry.
What type of lug?
After finally understanding how to locate and test the air leak at
the valve, it turns out my wheels have special lugs all of them as
opposed to one being the lock nut. It looks like flower, what gives??? I
only have the usual MM impact wrench socket. What is it called and
where to get it?
Reply: So, 17mm has been stock on many Mercedes for some time. The
Convex (flower head) bolts appeared with the Maybach and then the W221
and are also on several other models. It is entirely possible that
someone put 17mm hex head bolts on your car or even another size, do you
have aftermarket wheels? You might just take a 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, etc.
out to the car with you to see which one fits best. At the very least
the lug wrench in the tool kit in the trunk should fit.
I fixed my Airmatic issues Friday, so relieved.
I replaced the valve block (which I suspect was actually fine) and as
I was putting the lines back in, I noticed a very small crack on one of
the strut air lines where it must have been bent around the brass
fitting. I cut off the bad inch and reconnected the line to the fitting,
and now the suspension works just fine. I drove it for 7 hours
yesterday (road trip) and not a single problem manifested itself! I did a
soapy water leak test but this must have been too small to see.
Regarding that additional pump/component in the fender: I was able to
take off the torx bolts holding it to the bracket there and slide the
part over to the right. It actually fit pretty nicely just resting on
the bottom of the FR fender/bumper. Anyways, just sliding it out of the
way gave me enough room to work on the valve block.
Basic steps:
Removed wheel and wheel fender liner
Removed 2 torx bolts holding that mystery part on then carefully slid
it off the bracket and braced it against the bumper/fender. Be very
careful not to mess with the pressure lines too much, I’m not sure how
much flexing they’re rated for but it certainly isn’t much.
Use a 10 mm wrench to crack open all the fittings at the valve block and drain the air system (compressor fitting uses a 12 mm)
Unscrew the single screw holding the valve body on and then slide the
whole thing out, vehicle right. A rubber fitting holds it on the other
end, it just slides off
If you have the same problem, you might as well get the valve body JIC… and follow the video instructions.
